Tuesday, September 22, 2015

A New England Yankee in Holyrood Park (July 4th in the UK)

It's been quite awhile since I posted about our time in the UK. I had intended to go in chronological order but find myself veering a bit off course today by sharing a few pictures of our July 4th.

I'm not sure whether celebrating your own traditional holidays in a land where those holidays aren't celebrated makes things more or less meaningful. I suppose it's a bit of both. Christmas in Taiwan and the 4th in the UK both lacked the grandeur of celebrations in the US. However, torn from that grandeur we see year after year and even grow weary of, it was easier to appreciate the substance of the day.

In the long run, I suppose living internationally has helped me value my own heritage more while also valuing and understanding other heritages. I think, too, that the simplicity of our current celebrations will help me appreciate the grandeur of future holidays back in the states. I've boiled own to the substance of things and can now value the celebrations that ensue.

As a side note, it's a bit funny celebrating your independence in the land from which you gained independence. But I took comfort in knowing that Scotland (where we were at the time) has its own history of rebellion against England.

Anyway, without further rambling, here's our July 4th in Holyrood Park, complete with hamburgers and an apple pie (which just happened to be on sale!).




Monday, September 21, 2015

My heart, being hungry

It’s no secret that I love Edna St. Vincent Millay’s poetry. There are many poets I admire. Dickinson makes me smile and cry in turn. Frost makes me pause and think, ponder whether there’s a deeper meaning behind the straightforward rhymes even my poetry-hating father enjoys. And Donne . . . Well, I’m pretty sure I was once in love with Donne. By in love, I don’t just mean his poetry, I mean the man himself (but it was all because of his poetry, of course).

Those are just a few of the poets I love. There’s Hopkins and his pied beauty. There’s Eliot and his etherised patient. There’s Shakespeare, the bard himself. These are all wonderful poets, many of whom were movers and shakers of their time, blazing new paths for verse. No one, though, can match the emotional connection I share with Millay. 

Perhaps it’s geographic. She was a Mainer. I’m a Mainer. We both understand the hold that such a magical place can have on your soul. Perhaps it’s personality. Not everyone can write or want to write poetry about the beauty of frogs as she does in "Assault."She wrote the poetry I long to write, the poetry I would write had I her gift.


Recently, I was walking into town to pick up some groceries. I was soaking up the way the light glanced off the city balconies and the poem of hers below came to mind. 

My heart, being hungry, feeds on food
The fat of heart despise.
Beauty where beauty never stood,
And sweet where no sweet lies
I gather to my querulous need, 
Having a growing heart to feed.

It may be, when my heart is dull,
Having attained its girth,
I shall not find so beautiful
The meagre shapes of earth,
Nor linger in the rain to mark
The smell of tansy through the dark.

The buildings I was admiring were hard, angular city buildings far away from my beloved country houses framed by evergreens, yet here I was seeing beauty where "beauty never stood" or at least where I never would have seen it in the past.

Sometimes I fancy fear in Millay’s last stanza, a fear of being so full of beauty that she no longer values the “meagre shapes of earth.” Maybe I’m sensing my own fear. I don’t ever want to be so full of the big things that I pass by “the smell of tansy through the dark” or the slant of light on a city building. Because of this fear, I sometimes wonder, “Should I cultivate a hungry heart?” 

I’d like to think that a satiated heart can enjoy these simple moments, that Millay and I don’t see “beauty where beauty never stood” but that we are instead attuned to the beauty in the nondescript and that anyone, no matter how full they are on beauty, can learn to appreciate the nondescript. 

Maybe, though, that’s not even an issue. Our hearts are continually drained by the busyness of our lives. They’re always hungry. We tend to get so caught up in that busyness, though, that we don’t realize our hunger. It’s sitting there, waiting to be filled.

I suppose that’s the way it is with God, too. We become spiritually drained through everyday life. But we let that everyday life so overwhelm us that we never stop to feel our hunger. We forget the joy and restoration of a quiet talk with God or a moment gazing at the shifting light. 

I often like to satiate both hungers at the same time. C.S. Lewis talks about something similar in Surprised By Joy. He recounts spending his whole life searching for joy and then realizing, at the end of his search, that those moments of joy on earth weren’t the end goal but “signposts” pointing him on to the true joy in Christ. 

This world, I’ve come to learn, at the ripe old age of 27 (yes, I realize that I’m really quite young), is full of beauty and magic. It’s our own Narnia given to us by a loving God for our enjoyment. That beauty, though, shouldn’t stop at our eyes. It should seep into our hearts and lead us to true beauty, redemption and peace in Christ. 

The sad thing is, we don’t enjoy his gift. We’re full of looking for the next exciting experience, forgetting that the moment here and now is beautiful. Because we ignore our hunger, we keep missing those signposts pointing us on to the most exciting, beautiful, joyful “experience” of all.


For the beauty of the earth, 
for the glory of the skies, 
for the love which from our birth 
over and around us lies; 
Lord of all, to thee we raise 
this our hymn of grateful praise. 

-Folliott S. Pierpont (1835-1917)

Monday, September 14, 2015

In Whatsoever State I Am

Last Monday morning, I got up early. Actually, if I’m honest, I never fell asleep. We live in a high-rise apartment complex with a few stores in the courtyard below. That morning, we were out of coffee, so I hurried down to 7-11. It was raining. It wasn’t the warm, humid rain we normally have. In fact, the air was surprisingly cool for Taipei this time of year. As I stood at the counter listening to the coffee machine whirr, smelling that fresh coffee scent, and hearing the cool rain drizzle outside, I was transported.
Our apartment complex from the ridge in a nearby park
Transported sounds like a word some cooler-than-thou writer with pretensions of grandeur would use. In fact, it reminds me of my sophomore creative writing teacher adamantly warning us to avoid the “lure of the obscure.” “Don’t talk old-fashioned just because you think it sounds cool.” I can’t think of a better word, though, for how it felt. For a moment, I wasn’t in Taipei, standing at a 7-11 counter. I was in Maine, on a rainy morning, grabbing coffee at a local cafe and chatting with the shop assistant, probably a longtime friend since this is Maine after all.

The moment was fleeting, but it was there. I was transported.

Longterm travel is a funny thing. When you first arrive at a new place, a new home, you are enamoured with that newness. It’s not that you don’t love home, but home is old hat. You can have that back whenever you want, right? You want to try new foods, new places, new adventures. The longer you stay, though, the more you seek the familiar, something that feels like home.

Our first year here, I was too busy to feel much homesickness. Granted, there were moments when I really wanted a good piece of bread or a bowl of mashed potatoes slathered with butter that didn’t cost an arm and a leg. At Christmas, too, I wanted snow and family. But there was also something enchanting about the newness. I learned to love rice even more than I already did. I fell in love with a simpler Christmas free from cultural expectations. I missed home, but I treasured the new.

Christmas Eve 2014
A sleepy Christmas morning 
This year, though, it’s a bit different. Perhaps it’s the length of time I’ve been away. We’re nearing 13 months since my feet last hit American soil. Maybe it’s the life changes I’ve gone through. I’m not teaching this year, so I have more time on my hands, more time to long for that one place that’s always felt like home—Maine. Or maybe it’s the recent agony of a long-sought hope deferred. If I can’t have this one thing we long for, then can’t I at least be home?

Maybe it’s one of these things or maybe it’s all three of these things in combination that make me miss home so I much. I don’t know. I just know I miss it.

I miss the changing of a sunshiny summer into a crisp fall. I miss the smell of apples fresh-picked from a tree. I miss long drives in the middle of nowhere just to run errands. I miss friendly but reserved people. I miss living in a town where I’m known by my lineage, my parents or my Dad’s parents or even my Dad’s parents’ parents. I miss being known as an Andrews girl just by my looks.

I’m a small-town girl with a loving family from a beautiful place, and I miss it all. 

But I’ve found these moments here to get me through. Sometimes it’s something small that reminds me of home. It could be a drizzly morning getting coffee or it could be searching out and finding a long-missed food. Other times, it’s not so much something that reminds me of home but something that feels like home in a new, surprising way.

Let me explain. When we left for the UK this summer, we went knowing we would return here but not anticipating that return. We’ve enjoyed our time in Taipei. It’s been an adventure, but it’s never felt like home in the way that Maine or the UK does. When the plane touched down at Songshan Airport, though, we were both surprised at how we felt. It was like returning to an old friend. A puzzle piece slipped into place. 

Arriving at Songshan Airport
Since returning, I’ve had two contradictory emotions growing. I miss home, but this place continues to feel a bit more like a new home. It’s the familiar walk through the park into town. It’s fresh watermelon juice from a roadside stand. It’s buying flowers for a pittance at a traditional, undercover market with a weird smell. It’s looking at Taipei 101 from my apartment on a clear morning. These aren’t things that remind me of home. They are things that I’ve learned to love for themselves and have consequently begun to feel like home, a new home. 

I’ll continue to miss home. Taipei will never replace Maine in my heart. There are many things I don’t like here: the weather (especially in the Winter), the lack of good quality bread, MSG in everything, not being able to communicate freely. 

I’m learning to be like Paul, though, and treasure where I am. Paul says in his letter to the Philippians that he has learned in all things to be content. By our standards, Paul had every reason not to be content. He went through unjust imprisonments and shipwrecks. He knew hunger and want. He should have been unhappy, but he wasn’t. 

By that comparison, I have it pretty good. I have a 3-bedroom apartment, plenty of food (especially after our trip to Costco the other night!), air conditioners in almost every room, friends, income, and plenty of creature comforts. 

The only thing I lack is that one place I would prefer to be. I have to imagine that Paul had a place he preferred. Maybe it was his childhood home. We don’t know. We do know that not only was he content to be away from that place (if he indeed had such a place), but he was also content to be in the midst of all manner of hardships. Why? He had Christ, and being in the center of Christ’s will is always home.

God allows hardships and longings in our lives for a reason. We should always come back to the same question. What does God want me to learn? In this case, the answer is laid out pretty plain and simple by Paul.

“I have learned, in whatsoever state I am, therewith to be content.”


At the hot springs in the mountains outside Taipei 

Friday, September 4, 2015

Money Saving Travel Tips: The Historic Scotland Explorer Pass

If you're visiting Scotland, you'll want to check out the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass. We actually discovered it quite by accident on a visit to Craigmillar Castle but wish we had known about it sooner. It's definitely worth the money, allowing you to visit multiple historic locations at a reduced rate.





How it Works


It's a bit confusing at first but really quite simple once you understand it. You can buy 3-day pass for £30 or a 7-day pass for £40. The 3-day pass is valid for 5 days from the date of your first visit (this was the date of purchase for us but doesn't have to be). You choose 3 days out of the 5 to visit Historic Scotland locations. On those 3 days, you can visit as many locations as you want for no extra cost. We were given a receipt with 3 spaces at the bottom to right dates on. Each day we went out, we filled in the date. The 7-day pass works the same. You have 14 days to use it but you can only visit Historic Scotland locations for 7 of those days. You can visit as many sites as you want but visit each site only once.


Obviously, the more sites you plan on visiting, the more you'll save. Want to cram in as many historic sites as possible in a week? Get the £40 7-day pass and explore to your heart's content. We loved the flexibility of the pass. We didn't have to use it 3 days in succession but could choose our dates. This was especially nice when we woke up one morning feeling sick and not wanting to go on our planned excursion.

Keep in mind that this pass isn't valid for every historic site in Scotland. It works for the sites operated by Historic Scotland. But there are 78 of those, so you shouldn't run out of options anytime soon!


What We Saved


We visited just 3 castles so our savings were a bit more modest than they could've been. But I'm still quite happy with the results. Here's everything broken down:

Admission Costs Without a Pass 


Craigmillar Castle: £5.50 x 2
Edinburgh Castle: £16.50 x 2
Stirling Castle: £14.50 x 2


Total cost without the Explorer Pass 


£73 for 2 people ($111.64)

Cost of the Explorer Pass 


£60 for a 3-day Family Pass ($91.75)

Total Savings


£13 ($19.89)

Of course, you can get even better mileage out of the pass if you are traveling with a larger family or visiting more locations than we did. We would have loved to explore more castles but were limited to anything accessible by train within an easy day trip of Edinburgh. If you're already renting a car, your options open up!

Our savings might not have been as impressive as they could have been. Still, we were always planning on visiting these castles. We didn't decide to simply because we had an Explorer Pass. It was always on the agenda. And why pay £73 when you can pay £60?

Where We Went




Craigmillar Castle






A friend of mine who just wrapped up a post-grad program at the University of Edinburgh (Congrats, Friend!) told us about this lovely walk through Holyrood Park and into Duddingston Village. Just passed Duddingston Village, she informed us, were the ruins of Craigmillar Castle. Craigmillar Castle was owned by the Preston family but was a favorite retreat from politics and Edinburgh life for Mary Queen of Scots. She stayed there in 1563 and 1566. On her second stay, the Craigmillar Bond was signed by her noblemen there, an agreement to dispose of Mary's unpopular husband, Lord Darnley.







Edinburgh Castle






Edinburgh Castle has a long, storied history. It served as a royal residence and later as military barracks base with a garrison. I won't even attempt to distill its story into a succinct paragraph or two. It's something of an overwhelming experience to visit Edinburgh Castle. It's so full of history. Some highlights of the trip: the Stone of Scone, St. Margaret's Chapel (the oldest building in Edinburgh), royal apartments, prisons, museums, and more. Edinburgh Castle sits high above Edinburgh and is visible throughout the city.







Stirling Castle 






We took the train from Edinburgh to Stirling and then walked up through the city to Stirling Castle. Stirling Castle was a nice middle ground between Craigmillar and Edinburgh. It wasn't ruins like Craigmillar but also wasn't as much of a crowded, built-up, tourist attraction as Edinburgh Castle was. We were also able to jump in on a guided tour at no extra cost. I don't know about all the tour guides, but ours was fantastic! He was full of historical background as well as details about the restoration of the castle. The castle formerly served as a royal residence for Scottish monarch. Mary Queen of Scots was born here and her grandson, Prince Henry (son of James VI of Scotland or James I of England and Ireland) was christened here. James the VI and I, himself, grew up there. The views there are worth a mention, too--breathtaking.





Tuesday, September 1, 2015

A Trip to Portebello Beach, Edinburgh

One slightly sunny Tuesday in June, we headed out for a walk to Portobello Beach in Edinburgh. It was about a 2-mile walk from our flat next to Holyrood Park. 

Being from Maine, I've been in some cold water before. This water definitely ranked as some of the coldest. It didn't help that the sun stayed behind the clouds, giving us no incentive to get anything but our toes wet. 

It was a lovely day, though. We enjoyed strolling the beach, climbing a cement wall to the side of the beach, tea and scones at a little cafe nearby, and lovely stroll back through quiet neighborhoods.